Monday, August 3, 2009
Les Fotos!
Where I am staying for my last days in Paris has very good internet, so here are some preliminary photos. I have tons of pictures and I haven't had a chance to look through them. I quickly picked out a few. They aren't in any particular order, some are before, during, and after the Summer of Service. Click to enlarge them.
Normandie: Deuxieme Jour
At the moment, I am on the train back to Paris, enjoying the beautiful Normandy countryside to my left. I honestly believe everyone should visit this part of France if they are visiting the country. As for my visit here, let me go over just what I saw yesterday on my adventures out. We started the day by driving towards Omaha Beach at Coleville Sur Mer. We drove through a small town where the second to the last battle of the 100 Years War was held between France and England. James pointed out the field along with the points of defense of the English army, and then the flanking route the French Calvary took. Although I am not very knowledgeable on that war, it was still very interesting nonetheless. We then continued our trip to the beach. He brought me first to the furthest point east on Omaha Beach, which is the most untouched part since the war. We drove down to the beach via the Easy Red exit of the beach, one of the major tank and vehicle roads off of Omaha Beach. Actually, the famous picture of the row of GIs walking past a bunker on the bluff is right where I am speaking of. We walked around the beach at mid-tide, and I was very surprised at just how wide the sand was. The GIs landed at low tide, which meant that they had even more sand to cross. To walk from the water to the seawall, which supplied very little cover by the way, it takes minutes, not seconds. At this part of the beach, the seawall is still very visible, and the point at which the GIs took cover from the bunkers is also still just as it was. If you have seen Saving Private Ryan, they portray the seawall almost as a 60 degree angle supplying adequate cover. In reality, the seawall was maybe 30 degrees, and provided little cover. After making it to the seawall, looking up the bluffs from Omaha Beach is amazing. Running up these hills with casual clothes on is very difficult, and I can just imagine with equipment. We then drove along the beach, passing the Sunday beach crowds that had gathered. As we got to the Dog sectors of the beach, James began pointing out specific sites along with stories from that part of the beach. The worst fighting was at Dog White sector, where the first three waves experienced almost 100% casualty rates. I walked around a few bunkers on the beach, including one with the gun still remaining completely intact. The amount of damage that “didn’t” exist on these bunkers just goes to show how wasted the pre-landing bombardments were. After the beach, I went to the Omaha Beach Cemetery, which was a very moving experience. Row after row of crosses and stars overlooking the beaches is enough to send chills through anyone. The museum was quite good there, and I spent half an hour simply walking through one part of the graves, not nearly enough time.
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Afterwards, we headed to Pointe du Hock, the sight of the rangers valiant attack and costly fight on what was thought to be a battery shelling Omaha and Utah beaches. This was by far the most intact battleground I have seen yet. Just before the rangers climbed to cliffs to Pointe du Hock, 10,000 tons of bunker busting bombs were dropped. Not one of these craters has been since filled in. The bunkers both destroyed and intact, sit just as they did in 1944. Many of them rattled with bullet holes and impact craters, demonstrating the horrendous battle that took place. At some points I could see the lead from the bullet still lodged where it had been shot. I walked around Pointe du Hock for around half an hour, walking through massive bunkers and around bomb craters so large and so deep, falling in would certainly be dangerous and getting out maybe not an option.
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After Pointe du Hock, James took me to a place not very often visited, and only opened to public in the last year. The Battery of Maisy was actually what the rangers thought they were attacking when they landed at Pointe du Hock. This battery was the main costal battery overlooking both Utah and Omaha beaches. At Pointe du Hock, the bunkers simply had power poles in them to mimic howitzers. The Battery at Maisy was incredible. Not only was almost 90% of the entire hidden complex very much intact, but we were the only ones there. What is really interesting about this place is just how well it was hidden. From the morning of June 6th to the afternoon of June 9th, this battery continually shelled both American beaches without being bothered at all. The reason is because of just how well it was camouflaged. Standing just twenty feet from the entrance, I saw nothing. I looked into a field of flowers and saw only a field of flowers. After entering the trench and bunker system, I was walking by ammo holds, flak guns, and huge 155mm Howitzers, all covered with netting for protecting from aerial reconnaissance. This system has guns of all different sizes, an underground hospital, a full radar complex, multiple ammo holds with walls very thick, and everything one would need to live. In 2008, while clearing around an overgrown bunker, the people who own the land found a German soldier who supposedly died from an artillery hit (telling from the damage to his leg). The soldier still had everything with him, including his rifle, ammo, dog tags, and full uniform. They sent to body back to Germany to search his family and provide a proper burial.
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So, in my time in Normandy, I have seen the 82nd Airborne and 101st Airborne landing zones, Utah Beach, and Omaha Beach. Although there is so much more to see, for two days I have seen so much, especially considering I have seen the June 6th American sights. I thank James the battlefield expert for his great help and for providing me with a great place to stay. Tomorrow I will spend my day walking Paris and saying goodbye to France before my flight back on Wednesday morning. My next post will probably be from home, when I will begin uploading some pictures and write a small summary of my trip. Once I finish blogging about this trip, the blog will be discontinued until my next trip abroad.
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By the way, I finally learned how to make a classic French crape, and I plan on doing so after my return home.
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Afterwards, we headed to Pointe du Hock, the sight of the rangers valiant attack and costly fight on what was thought to be a battery shelling Omaha and Utah beaches. This was by far the most intact battleground I have seen yet. Just before the rangers climbed to cliffs to Pointe du Hock, 10,000 tons of bunker busting bombs were dropped. Not one of these craters has been since filled in. The bunkers both destroyed and intact, sit just as they did in 1944. Many of them rattled with bullet holes and impact craters, demonstrating the horrendous battle that took place. At some points I could see the lead from the bullet still lodged where it had been shot. I walked around Pointe du Hock for around half an hour, walking through massive bunkers and around bomb craters so large and so deep, falling in would certainly be dangerous and getting out maybe not an option.
-
After Pointe du Hock, James took me to a place not very often visited, and only opened to public in the last year. The Battery of Maisy was actually what the rangers thought they were attacking when they landed at Pointe du Hock. This battery was the main costal battery overlooking both Utah and Omaha beaches. At Pointe du Hock, the bunkers simply had power poles in them to mimic howitzers. The Battery at Maisy was incredible. Not only was almost 90% of the entire hidden complex very much intact, but we were the only ones there. What is really interesting about this place is just how well it was hidden. From the morning of June 6th to the afternoon of June 9th, this battery continually shelled both American beaches without being bothered at all. The reason is because of just how well it was camouflaged. Standing just twenty feet from the entrance, I saw nothing. I looked into a field of flowers and saw only a field of flowers. After entering the trench and bunker system, I was walking by ammo holds, flak guns, and huge 155mm Howitzers, all covered with netting for protecting from aerial reconnaissance. This system has guns of all different sizes, an underground hospital, a full radar complex, multiple ammo holds with walls very thick, and everything one would need to live. In 2008, while clearing around an overgrown bunker, the people who own the land found a German soldier who supposedly died from an artillery hit (telling from the damage to his leg). The soldier still had everything with him, including his rifle, ammo, dog tags, and full uniform. They sent to body back to Germany to search his family and provide a proper burial.
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So, in my time in Normandy, I have seen the 82nd Airborne and 101st Airborne landing zones, Utah Beach, and Omaha Beach. Although there is so much more to see, for two days I have seen so much, especially considering I have seen the June 6th American sights. I thank James the battlefield expert for his great help and for providing me with a great place to stay. Tomorrow I will spend my day walking Paris and saying goodbye to France before my flight back on Wednesday morning. My next post will probably be from home, when I will begin uploading some pictures and write a small summary of my trip. Once I finish blogging about this trip, the blog will be discontinued until my next trip abroad.
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By the way, I finally learned how to make a classic French crape, and I plan on doing so after my return home.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Normandie: Premier Jour
Earlier today I arrived in Bayeux in the heart of Normandy, France. Using a site called “Couch Surfing” made contact with an English family that lives in Normandy for the summer who said they would put me up for free. The father in the family is a battlefield specialist and has been touring battlefields his whole life. Before I arrived, I expected to be sleeping on the couch, supplying my own food, and walking or busing to the battlefields in and around Utah Beach. When I arrived, however, I was surprised. The house is actually an old Norman farmhouse that is three separate buildings, only one of which is being used at the moment. The family bought it three years ago and ever summer comes to France to work on it. I have my own room on the second floor and am in a very comfortable setting. Also, on the way home, James, who arranged my stay and is a battlefield expert, said that he could take me to all the best American sites for the D-Day landing (which he usually charges around 150 Euros for). I told him I was short on money but we could work out a price, to which he responded “I remember what it was like being a college student. I’ll tell you what; you can buy me a crape.” So, after arriving at the house and putting my stuff in the room, we immediately got in the car and went touring. The entire time we were using both side roads and main roads. He pointed out the road that his house is located on was the main road inland for the Sherman tanks during WWII because none of the major roads existed at the time.
We visited site after site, using back roads to go to sites that many times weren’t even marked and most commercial tours would never stop near. Here are some of the sites we stopped at on the first day out. By the way, I was on a complete high the whole time because a majority of the places we visited I have read about at some point. These are in order by time visited:
City of Saint-Lo, including the original chapel
Grainges – Massacre sight of French Citizens and American Paratroopers
Picauville – Crash sight of five C47s on the night of June 5th
Sight of the ambush and death of the German General Falley by the 101st Airborne:
In the early hours of D-Day General Wilhelm Falley, commander of 91 Luftlande Infanterie Division was taking part in a military conference in Rennes. On hearing the news of the Airborne landings he hurried back to his HQ at the Chateau de Bernaville. Fearing the Chateau might be bombed he transferred his HQ to a caravan in a lane adjacent to the Chateau. Unfortunately the area was part of drop zone N of 508 PIR and when he attempted to transfer his command post he was ambushed and killed at Ferme de la Minoterie.
River Mederay Causeway, La Friére Farm, sight of the Iron Mike memorial, General Gavin’s foxhole, and over one-thousand allied causalities due to causeway fighting
Saint-Mere Eglise City, Church, and Museum – Site of a major battle with U.S. Paratroopers and filming site of “The Longest Day”
Ecauessville, A WWI Airship Hangar used by the Nazi’s as a supply depot during WWII and later as a jeep and Sherman repair station by the Allies
Anseville Battery outside of Utah Beach, a German Battery shelling the beaches
Crisbeque Battery (St. Marcolve battery by the French), battery outside of Utah Beach
Oderville St. Hubert – Massacre sight of German Troops by U.S. paratroopers
Brecourt Manner – Sight of EZ Company, 101st attacks on the German guns shelling the beaches led by Lieutenant Winters (Represented in Band of Brothers, Episode 2)
Frankeville Farm – Where two French citizens hid a group of German Soldiers during the invasions in order to peacefully allow them to surrender just a couple of days after D-Day
Utah Beach – Landing sight for American forces on D-Day
La Madelie Church – Just off of Utah Beach, most Utah Beach veterans remember this church as it is the first one after leaving Utah Beach and is located on the main exit for Sherman tanks and other vehicles
German Bunker W.2.
V2 Launchsite used to bomb London
St. Mere du Mont – A key 101st objective and site of a major contact
American General Pratt’s glider crash site and death
Dead Man’s Corner – Once the headquarters of German forces in the area. Named because a Sherman tank went to the corner, and when the tank commander opened his hatched, he was shot. His troops could not get to his for two days because of enemy fire. Veterans from both sides remember this site because of the man who lay on his tank for two days in the middle of a standstill.
During most of this trip there was a light rain, but tomorrow it will be clearing up. We will be visiting Omaha Beach tomorrow and more sites of American Paratrooper landings. I will make sure to post when I get the chance. Also, I have taken some great pictures, some to even match prior pictures that were taken in 1944. I will also post all this when I arrive home.
We visited site after site, using back roads to go to sites that many times weren’t even marked and most commercial tours would never stop near. Here are some of the sites we stopped at on the first day out. By the way, I was on a complete high the whole time because a majority of the places we visited I have read about at some point. These are in order by time visited:
City of Saint-Lo, including the original chapel
Grainges – Massacre sight of French Citizens and American Paratroopers
Picauville – Crash sight of five C47s on the night of June 5th
Sight of the ambush and death of the German General Falley by the 101st Airborne:
In the early hours of D-Day General Wilhelm Falley, commander of 91 Luftlande Infanterie Division was taking part in a military conference in Rennes. On hearing the news of the Airborne landings he hurried back to his HQ at the Chateau de Bernaville. Fearing the Chateau might be bombed he transferred his HQ to a caravan in a lane adjacent to the Chateau. Unfortunately the area was part of drop zone N of 508 PIR and when he attempted to transfer his command post he was ambushed and killed at Ferme de la Minoterie.
River Mederay Causeway, La Friére Farm, sight of the Iron Mike memorial, General Gavin’s foxhole, and over one-thousand allied causalities due to causeway fighting
Saint-Mere Eglise City, Church, and Museum – Site of a major battle with U.S. Paratroopers and filming site of “The Longest Day”
Ecauessville, A WWI Airship Hangar used by the Nazi’s as a supply depot during WWII and later as a jeep and Sherman repair station by the Allies
Anseville Battery outside of Utah Beach, a German Battery shelling the beaches
Crisbeque Battery (St. Marcolve battery by the French), battery outside of Utah Beach
Oderville St. Hubert – Massacre sight of German Troops by U.S. paratroopers
Brecourt Manner – Sight of EZ Company, 101st attacks on the German guns shelling the beaches led by Lieutenant Winters (Represented in Band of Brothers, Episode 2)
Frankeville Farm – Where two French citizens hid a group of German Soldiers during the invasions in order to peacefully allow them to surrender just a couple of days after D-Day
Utah Beach – Landing sight for American forces on D-Day
La Madelie Church – Just off of Utah Beach, most Utah Beach veterans remember this church as it is the first one after leaving Utah Beach and is located on the main exit for Sherman tanks and other vehicles
German Bunker W.2.
V2 Launchsite used to bomb London
St. Mere du Mont – A key 101st objective and site of a major contact
American General Pratt’s glider crash site and death
Dead Man’s Corner – Once the headquarters of German forces in the area. Named because a Sherman tank went to the corner, and when the tank commander opened his hatched, he was shot. His troops could not get to his for two days because of enemy fire. Veterans from both sides remember this site because of the man who lay on his tank for two days in the middle of a standstill.
During most of this trip there was a light rain, but tomorrow it will be clearing up. We will be visiting Omaha Beach tomorrow and more sites of American Paratrooper landings. I will make sure to post when I get the chance. Also, I have taken some great pictures, some to even match prior pictures that were taken in 1944. I will also post all this when I arrive home.
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